The Midnight Train to Moscow
The search began before dawn; the train had just crossed the border of Tajikistan into Uzbekistan. We were only three hours into the four- day train ride between Dushanbe, Tajikistan’s capital, and Moscow. An Uzbek border guard , clad in brown fatigues , boarded the train — a Soviet-replica, green, with a silver roof — and began yelling. He moved through the car, searching passenger after passenger, ripping apart belongings, interrogating everyone about terrorism and narcotics, and scanning flip phones and cheap Nokias for “sex photos” (pornography is banned in Uzbekistan). The passengers endured this, unfazed. Almost all of them were migrants traveling to Russia for work. They’d seen this routine before. It was March. Across Tajikistan, thousands of people — mostly young men — were departing for or preparing to leave for Russia. The long Russian winter was nearing its end; construction projects in cities like Moscow and St. Petersburg were slowly coming back to life. Tajikistan, t...